The weekend has been slow and it’s already Tuesday and what have I achieved? Well, I went out on Sunday to buy some stretch fabric (only 4% stretch) so that I could make up a muslin of a new pants pattern that I bought online from Colette Patterns. At Spotlight, Midland they had a rack of fabrics that were reduced down to $5 per meter and then for SUNDAY ONLY they had a further 50% off!!! Wow, surely there was something here that I could use to make up muslins in the right stretch for the pattern I was making…. and there was! It was printed, which is unfortunate because it’s a little harder to write over and see the alterations easily but at $2.50 per metre, I couldn’t complain.
Have you see the patterns from Colette? They’re so beautifully presented in a folder-like cover and when you open it, all the instructions are printed in a booklet format so you don’t have to unfold a huge instruction sheet that takes up so much room when you’re sewing and the pattern is neatly folded in a special flap at the back of the book. Love it!
Anyway, I traced the pattern out onto my mock fabric, tracing only the STITCHING lines and any notches, aligning marks and darts. I made sure to also mark in the GRAIN LINE and ensure that it was straight on my fabric too and then cut out the pieces (on folds so that i was actually cutting out an entire garment (not worrying about pockets or waistbands at this point)). When I cut it out I cut it out very roughtly leaving at least 2.5cm (1 inch) seam allowance. I sewed in the darts and joined the panels together correctly, without hemming or adding a waistband, and then tried it on for fit. Gee I wish I’d taken a photo because some major changes needed to be made but I was tired and it was late at night and seemed impractical to pull out the tripod and computer. Grrrr! That won’t happen again! Realistically I think you’d get a better look at how a garment REALLY LOOKS ON YOU if you take various photos because when we look at out rears in the mirror, we are actually distorting the way the garment sits so it’s not giving us a good view after all. Set your camera up on a tripod and learn how to use the custom settings. I set it to take 10 photos with 5 second intervals and probably do this about 3 times before i can see good images that I dare to put up on the net. Sometimes I’ve been known to take 80 photos (or more) before I’m happy with one or two. Take the photo of me in my pyjamas for instance (I wore them for the first time last night, by the way – very comfy!)… that took 120 photos! Most were out of focus or the lighting was bad. I finally figured out that I needed to set my camera to OVERCAST DAY in order to get the best lighting for my indoor photos. Phew! :)
OK, so back to my pants muslin: they were tight around the bottom and the rear of the pants was too low and too wide (I could fit my fist down the centre back). Trying to figure out how to fix this correctly was my aim and luckily Colette Patterns offer a few tutorials on how to adjust patterns and this is where I’m at at the moment. I’ve decided that I have a full bottom so have unpicked and ironed my panels in preparation of the “full-bottom-adjustment”. I’ve laid the BACK pattern piece on the table and cut it according to the instructions. Here’s what it looks like at this stage:
If you look closely you can see that I’ve actually stitched the stitching lines, darts and grain line in RED. And here are the adjustments I think I need to make although I must be honest and admit that I have no idea how wide to open the cuts I’ve just made. Might as well just trace it onto a new muslin fabric and start again. This time you’ll get photos of the after result!